Sling 4 for Matt Build Log

I'm trying something I've been meaning to try for some time now. Instead of blogging after I complete work, I'm blogging while I'm working. The fact is, I haven't kept up with blogging after I work, so perhaps I'll do better at both concurrently. After some thought about the order of things to do, I've decided to complete the center fuse to the point where the outer side skins and skin channels are complete. This includes the firewall and perhaps the forward inner skins. I found it very difficult to fit the inner skins with the outer skins in place. We will see what I end up doing. I need to finish soundproofing the forward floor void and under the torque tubes. I'm reusing the templates from the right side to cut the left soundproofing (I wish I installed the soundproofing before I reinstalled the torque tubes). Templates drawn out in fine point blue sharpie: After blowing the surface off with compressed air and running a tack cloth over...

I finished up the rudder last weekend. Not much to say other than skinning it with no twist was challenging. This week I turned my attention to completing a front seat that was missing a part (#3 - Front Seat Base): Parts 6 & 8 are non-metallic but are riveted into the assembly. The instructions don't say this, but I'd suggest using a #4 washer around the blind end (which contacts the teflon-like piece) to prevent the bulge from pulling into the material. The picture below shows the teflon-like pieces already riveted on the lower side without washers. This was performed by the previous builder. The remaining rivets will use washers. After getting to this point, I realized the bushings that pull the cable can't be bolted through the handle from this orientation. I removed the base plate and installed the bushings before jigging the assembly together: This picture depicts how I installed the handle upside down. I had to take the assembly apart again to...

I riveted the main spar to the CF. About one-fourth of the skin's holes required minor reaming to receive the rivets. Afterwards, I drilled out the twelve aileron stop rivets. Only one of them was problematic, with the mandrel broken at the surface. It was impossible to get a clean drill out of it. I flipped the stops around and re-joined them. NEXT STEPS Figure out what rear fuse work needs to be done and verify parts and build Verify work in E1. Do the parts bolted to the web need to be riveted? Check torque. Verify E3 work. Rivet main spar in E3 (verify using 4.0x10mm alu-multi rivets). Fix aileron stops in E3 Installing missing center console rivnuts and enlarge screw holes (need to place order for #8-32 rivnuts) Verify E4-E9 Install soundproofing Assemble/Install Finishing manual 1-4abc Assemble/Install Finishing manual 10, 11, 18 At some point receive replacement parts for rear seat location modification (E16, E17, E18) At some point receive some emp replaceme...

I am going to take a page from Craig's early days blog posts and start adding enumerated task lists to the end of each post. I use Trello to track tasks that depend on other resources (i.e. damaged or missing parts, orders, questions to the factory) and I keep a WBS/CP diagram to help me know what order work should occur in and remind me of what done looks like. But I still find myself staring hopelessly at all this data and unsure of what task to engage in. I've jumped from the empennage to the fuselage while I await the arrival of replacement parts from SA. I've gotten to the point where I have identified all the mysterious pieces for the partially completed rear and center fuses and have a good plan for going forward now. I hope that I've identified all the work that has to be re-done as well. For now, here's my plan: NEXT STEPS Figure out what rear fuse work needs to be done and verify parts and build Verify work in E1. Do the parts bolted to the web ne...

In case this is the first post you've read on my site, it's important to know that I purchased a complete airframe kit with the toe break and parachute options from a previous builder. The rear fuse was nearly complete and the center fuse was partially complete. Unfortunately, some of the center fuse work was completed out of order, so I'm dealing with fixing those issues. But, I did determine that the rudder pedals could be installed and have some important knowledge to share if you're going to get the toe brake option. Right off, I would like to say there was a point that I would have opted for the toe brake option. I flew with them in my first Sling 4 Turbo ride. When I test flew the TSi, it had only the hand brake. The TSi, with only the hand brake, was able to pivot turn around a main wheel with just the nose wheel alone. That convinced me that I could live without the toe brakes and gain the advantage of adjustable rudder pedals, lower weight, and lower cost...

With the garage organized, I've spent the past couple of evenings sorting through the fuselage kit. 90% of the rear fuse was completed by the previous builder. About 15% of the center fuse work has also been done, but with some problems. Several dozen of the center fuse parts have been primed and have no part numbers. I poured through the build manuals and figured out all the mystery pieces. During that process, I noticed some had been completed incorrectly. I also noticed that some work on the center fuse was completed out of order, which made it impossible to fix without drilling out a bunch of rivets. I'm cataloging that work now and will detail it when it happens. Two other issues have struck me. The first is the number of missing parts in the kit. I dealt with the missing parts that I could inventory that were labeled when I first got the kit. Since I've been identifying the mystery parts, I'm discovering a number more of missing parts. This process is really e...